Is It Worth Having My Jeans Repaired
I recently had my vintage Levi's repaired a couple of times past the team at Blackhorse Lane. The beginning time for a rip in the knee, and the 2d to reinforce the crotch seams.
It's wonderful to be able to do that. The jeans are merely as strong, despite beingness over 50 years old, and I have no demand of anything new.
This is more sustainable, of class. Just merely as important is that information technology makes the jeans more personal and precious.
When I bought them they had already been repaired several times. At present I've added my own repairs - my ain steps on their journey - and equally a result in that location is a lot of emotional investment. I recall that's i reason they've become one of my favourite pieces of clothing. They are unique, irreplaceable.
Still, they won't last forever. Jeans can be repaired many times, and await better doing so than any other type of clothing. Simply in that location is a limit.
The most common repair on jeans is reinforcing the crotch (above). You might not want to imagine this, simply there'south more sweat and leaner downward there, and (depending on your activities and torso type) much more than friction.
If the problem is caught when the denim is wearing thin, rather than really blown through, then darning on the within of the material can be enough.
This is non darning every bit you know from knitwear, where hand sewing is used to recreate the weave in a minor area of the cloth. (And which we've covered before, here.)
Instead, a sewing machine is used to sew repeatedly back and forth on the back of the denim (shown below). This is done once more and once again, so much that yous're effectively creating new fabric.
The sewer will generally follow the direction of the twill, and utilise a thread that's as similar to the colour of the jeans in that expanse every bit possible. It does practice the same thing as darning knitwear, simply rather more than intensely, roughly and mechanically.
Sometimes, a slice of spare material is too needed behind the repair, to reinforce it.
On my jeans, I'd noticed that the seams on either side of the crotch were thinning significantly. There was still thread in that location, connecting the 2 sides, just y'all could near see through information technology.
In this instance darning on the back of the seam was sufficient (below).
Where the denim on the knee had ripped, however, a new piece of fabric was also needed on the dorsum. This can exist another piece of denim or a piece of softer cotton fiber: the former is stronger but stiffer, the latter softer but not necessarily as strong.
When I had my beginning pair of bespoke Levi'south repaired, they used denim. Blackhorse Lane, who repaired my vintage ones, preferred to utilise softer cotton. Either way, the material is then darned on the back in the aforementioned way.
"My communication is to bring in jeans before they actually rip through - when they're just thinning," says Lilly at Blackhorse Lane. "If y'all do that, chances are we won't need to put any backing on, and the result won't be as thick."
This is particularly good advice in the crotch because the textile needs to shape to your legs and seat, and you're more than probable to discover any extra thickness.
Pictured to a higher place is a big repair on the articulatio genus of a pair of jeans. Lilly and the squad have likewise put patches on the outside of knees for issues like this, just only in exceptional circumstances.
"If someone is on their knees a lot, through their piece of work, and then it can be good to have an actress layer of denim," says Lilly. "But it's non normally required. The simply other fourth dimension we've done it was when a gentleman had spilt bleach on his jeans, and a patch over the elevation was more than attractive than the stains."
Another common task is repairing the buttonholes on the fly and waistband. Maybe surprisingly, this has to be done by hand, and so you effectively end upward with manus-sewn buttonholes like on bespoke trousers.
That'south necessary because the particular machine tin only sew an entire buttonhole, and so cutting the cloth in the centre. Trying to do that over the top of an existing buttonhole would be pretty messy.
Entire waistbands can as well be replaced, if needed, and pocket numberless replaced too.
"This happens quite a lot with other jeans because they use lite pocket numberless," says Lilly (to a higher place). "This makes them more comfortable at the offset, but they're often the outset things to go."
A small hole or rip can exist seen closed, merely ofttimes the whole pocketbook has fallen apart. Apparently, men rarely bring these in to be replaced until there's almost zip left.
So what can't exist repaired?
"Basically, when the material everywhere just gets likewise thin," says Lilly. "When you can hold information technology up to the calorie-free and well-nigh run into through it."
At that betoken, the rips are going to come everywhere fast. And then y'all're effectively making an entire new pair jeans inside; it'south better to start again.
I call up my jeans still have a good few years left. Particularly as I don't clothing them every twenty-four hours - and non for annihilation equally transmission equally they were probably originally used.
Then I'll keep patching and darning for a good while notwithstanding.
For details on how much jeans can be altered, rather than repaired, run into previous article here .
Blackhorse Lane repair any jeans, from them or any other maker. Take them to the Coal Drops Yard shop to hash out details.
Prices range from £20 for a small hole to £35 for a large one and £60 for replacing a pocket handbag.
Other places that do repairs in London, and I would recommend are:
- Soldier Blue: linked to Son Of a Stag and Rudie's repair and alteration adjunct.
- The Denim Doc , been doing the alterations for a long fourth dimension.
- Hang Up Vintage - Ben, a vintage dealer who makes and re-engineers vintage habiliment
Pictured in a higher place, the pile of repairs waiting at Blackhorse Lane; below, their Singer darning automobile. All photography, courtesy of Blackhorse Lane.
Is It Worth Having My Jeans Repaired,
Source: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2021/11/how-jeans-can-be-repaired-and-when-they-cant.html
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