How To Repair Tomos A35

Introduction

Situation: Your Tomos A35 transmission sounds crappy and the clutch is slipping. Upon inspection information technology appears your cork has gone through a blender.

This guide will teach y'all how to re-cork your clutches instead of buying new ones ($75 each) and as well how to make them last longer past turning fig 3a into fig 4a

Note: If y'all have the money, it is worth REPLACING the clutches every bit the cork wears out at the same charge per unit as the crappy metallic the clutches are built from. Still, the method of corking hither applies to new clutches as well. The style of groovy has actually gotten worse from the original transmissions every bit shown in the picture, and you lot are better off replacing the cork whether the clutches are onetime or brand new. Additional methods such as cutting diagonal slots into the cork may fifty-fifty perform ameliorate, however the longevity of the design hasn't been tested by me.

Eventually the clutch parts volition pause autonomously and grind upwardly all the parts, spitting them into the transmission for farther damage to ensue.

The moving picture beneath demonstrates how the A35 clutch hub tin can be fit with shoes from A3 clutches with yellow 25lb springs installed. Slight modifications must be fabricated to the A35 clutch hub and so the A3 clutch shoes will fit. The hubs are held together and the slots on the A3 hub are traced onto the newer A35 hubs; an angle grinder works well for this. The clutches are then assembled the same way simply this time the springs will be visible when the 1st gear clutch assembly is placed into the bell (they face inward with the original shoes).

both 1st and second gear shoes from the A3 can be put on the A35 1st gear hub this manner.

Disassembly

The clutches can be readily serviced while the engine / transmission assembly is even so installed on the moped. They are located nether the encompass on the right side of the transmission.

To detach:

1. Drain the transmission fluid.
2. Remove the right side pedal crank.
3. Cheque that the pedal shaft is free of burrs so it will not damage the oil seal as you pull it through.
4. Remove the seven Allen head bolts effectually the exterior of the encompass and advisedly pry the cover loose and pull it straight off (information technology has alignment pins). At that place may exist shim washers on the pedal shaft and the ends of the internal shafts, annotation carefully their location.

At this point you can see the first gear clutch; inspect it and decide whether you demand to proceed further.

To remove the clutches, use a 17mm deep well socket to unscrew the clutch nut (conventional correct-hand thread). This nut is on the engine crankshaft, therefore to prevent the shaft from turning, use a holder tool, or a strap wrench, or remove the spark plug and insert a cylinder lock, or a length of rope to jam the piston. Go along runway of the lock washer under the nut. Slide the clutch drum and rotors off the shaft. Note there is a shim washer on the crankshaft backside the clutch associates.

The kickoff gear clutch is free at this point; to work on the second gear clutch remove the snap ring with snap band pliers and slide it off of the drum shaft.

Materials Needed

What you will need:

• a square of cork (mine was a packet of squares which are used for a small bulletin board) I highly recommend you lot await for higher quality cork as in that location is an abundance at various automotive stores.
• Another unconfirmed option: Rubberized cork gasket at 3/32 thickness, sold at most NAPA'southward (this would in theory eliminate the need for sanding to reduce the thickness of the cork), chrome leather, or other friction cloth.
  • Note: I've tried chrome leather and metal friction manner materials and have incurred problems with longevity and adhesion that i did not feel with the cork. Others have claimed some corporeality of success.
• a palm sander or equivalent
• Devcon II super gum, or something equally as good
  • Note: Gorilla gum has also been used successfully for this application
• A clutch-sized hose clench or an oil filter wrench (strap type) works well to hold the cork against the clutch as the glue dries. Just mucilage one piece at a time and exist careful not to mucilage the cork to the wrench.

Thinning the Cork

First, the foursquare of cork you are using is probably much much besides thick (mine were 4mm thick) they need to be approximately 2mm thick when finished. Become ahead and sand information technology downward a decent bit (to maybe 3mm) (to arrive more flexible) and so cut into strips measuring exactly 15mm past 80mm.

Sand off the remaining cork and roughen up the metal on the clutch to ensure the mucilage sticks well. As accurately as possible, glue the strips from tip to tip following the fig 4a design. Afterward holding till its set, i recommend rolling the clutch with a fleck of forcefulness to ensure all parts are glued downwards well.

Sand the overhanging edges and round all corners, sand the "bridge" between the strips in lodge to brand a "ramp" to reduce clothing (DOES Piece of work) every bit seen in picture beneath

Plumbing equipment the Clutch

Then, endeavor to put the clutch back into its housing. It probably won't fit and then advisedly sand down each side evenly making certain to maintain the ramp effect at the gaps. Sand until the clutch fits into the housing with merely a bit of a gap as shown below.

That's it. Recollect where all the parts go, and reassemble with confidence knowing the new design won't go torn to shit and will last longer. Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly, of course. Exist sure to get all the spacers/shims dorsum in their proper places. The long cover commodities goes in the top heart pigsty. Always apply new ATF to refill the transmission.

Likewise check out this thread for a Helpful Tip for lining upward the clutch cover.

Source: https://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Tomos_A35_clutch_repair

Posted by: cosperpreseved.blogspot.com

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